If at the end of the board the plain mountain overlooking this familiar land, as the mist away gently, plain in the village surrounded by green trees and streams, it carefully in the depths of the earth.
If chengdu wenchuan far away;If chengdu's Yangtze massif with active nearby longmenshan tectonic plates;Or, just a little again, if the "5 · 12" earthquake postponed fifty years;So, at least for our generation, we will lack a more precise understanding of the opportunities of chengdu.
However, all these "if" just after the assumption, the fact is, chengdu wenchuan was too close, close to only a few tens of kilometers.Of Yangtze massif and longmen mountain and chengdu plate, they have done a neighbor in one hundred million;And the sky were to fall in the "5 · 12" earthquake, it chose the 2008 summer breeze.As time slowly breaking brought by the earthquake, chengdu life continues - unlike in the past, people more to realize such a kind of objective existence, the nearest metropolis the epicentre, because of the unique geographical environment and humane environment, its life is still vivid and lively.
I think that, the quality of life is street in chengdu, if want to add an attributive to street, that is: elegance.
Wide lane: the depths of the history of human breath
Lazy rain weakly on the wutong, sometimes windy, rocking the buttonwood that basin alone daisies.An old tea table, above lay a celadon bowl, bowl, heat waves.Vision is a long, lonely old, on both sides of the house, the towering cornices and fire wall, courtyard deeply.At the other end of the street, a rhubarb dog spit out a long tongue, looking at rain is more and more intensive, gloomily murmurs of two old people, two of them hit his head, those with white hair, more than a century heart-pounding -- the wide lane scene in my memory.Or, whenever remind of wide lane, I will involuntarily in the mind of this picture has emerged in the past for many years.
Although people often say love has not changed for thousands of years in chengdu city name, the site has not changed, but the poor have to tight, chengdu is already hard to find even more than one hundred piece of architecture.Turmoil in the world and utilitarian business is to the traditional one type swept over heavy-handed, it leaves the ancestors of the changed beyond recognition.Fortunately, wide lane - is a general place name, it tends to include with its narrow lanes and well lane next - is a rare old buildings.Specifically, they are used less residue.Little town is the city in the qing dynasty, it is regarded as the settlement of ethnic manchu qing dynasty rule.
If seen from the air less city, its main street layout is very much like a giant centipede: general government is the centipede head, long the street is a centipede, east-west populated streets and alleys are many feet like a centipede.This is a beautiful and elegant centipede.Since the end of the qing dynasty, more and more powerful and rich people entered the originally not han people live in a city within a city, a pick up a mansion.At that time, the big yellow Jue and ginkgo cover on both side of the street, from time to time have glared at the stone lion tall majestic - needless to say, shishi behind must be a grand mansion.This mansion tend to have some of the same details: there is always a blue brick build by laying bricks or stones into the walls, the walls stretch along the honeysuckle or Boston ivy trailing plants, such as silk, and if the spring and summer, some light flower opening in the wall carelessly, and let the wall laymen also have the opportunity to appreciate what is called a caged spring brightness.If a garden outside the deep alleys, perhaps even to hear coming from inside the woman's charming smile, let a person remember "laughter gradually WenShengJian not sad, affectionate is error" of song ci.
The world changes, like white clouds change into grey dogs., years later, the residence most were destroyed, but a wide alley down those simple ordinary homes also retained.Although fire wall has been broken, the old phoenix tree has been aging.But the wide lane in the center of chengdu region, also save on the old street gestures of chengdu.In the years before, this a few wide not small surplus zhangs, set a number of the chengdu teahouses, hotel and snacks, slow lane wide age seemed to have been deliberately forgotten, wide lane in the afternoon tea has become a kind of freehand brushwork in traditional Chinese way of life.
At that time I often go to the small teahouse, against the old Wall Street, hung a frame che black-and-white portrait, a lot of people are not clear this distant cubans and what is the relationship between the rundown side street in chengdu.I don't know.I was just sitting under his eyes tea, chat, or read an occasional book has no eyes.More time, I am willing to give attention to those who walked leisurely woman from the street.As for Long Tang, that is a famous place in the wide lane.There, often aggregation travelers from all over the world.One of my classmates came to chengdu, a five-star hotel, just to Long Tang name.In fact, Long Tang facilities is very ordinary, ordinary to rough., of course, I know, the old watch is that hidden in the deep of ancient meaning and plain, that is a kind of folk recent rare from chengdu.
There is no doubt that wide lane those old house door life is fine scales, trivial.But, as history is happiness looks dull s s, real happiness life also must be fine scales, trivial.
Later, wide lane is in danger of demolition by is located in the downtown.Fortunately, in the end the experimenter not put this piece of history have pulled down the old buildings that life and the other built some ice-cold cement box, but to transform it into today's wide lane - just a month after the earthquake, when the aftershocks of the many places are still nervous, busy street open wide lane.
It will rain that day, I didn't go sightseeing.Watching on television, however, coming and going of people, the packed a few small streets.I chose another summer to wide lane, that small tea shops once had gone, what's more, is fashionable bars and cafes.In nostalgic person point of view, this too is a pity, but I am from the manifest floated in the depths of the shop, and face feel, in fact, life need is a more calm and relaxed, as for the calm and relaxed, with a small blue and white bowl of tea shops or express, in cafe coffee cup that is another level of the problem.Now that the sun is the most busy little ants, also there is always time for each a picnic, then, to the wide lane to drink a cup of tea, drink a bottle of wine, a pot of coffee, is the life in this long article required a few commas.
The all over the city as a teahouse
My friend He Xiaozhu wrote a book about chengdu teahouses, the name of the book is called "chengdu teahouse".I remember He Xiaozhu and I meet the first few times, there are at least twice, then, are at a teahouse.Exiguous the tea house is located in the city center, in a gene called DaCiSi ancient temples.Red walls and guarded the door outside is solemn, but as long as a few face through the rigorous hall, you will find inside: spring and summer, the head of a grape, square table, here is the stone or several osmanthus tree open yellow flowers.Square table all around, optional with bamboo chair, you just sit on it, the chair can sing squeaks.Tea is tea, all in popular in sichuan folk have bowl costumes, hundreds of years to send tea guys out one after another after another left on the table.Tea drinkers in could fall at any time under a grape leaf, a cicada singing in the garden, killing seems to never spend not over time.
Even around the world, you can also be difficult to find the second city, have so many teahouses in chengdu.A former count, it is said that only less than one hundred square kilometers of urban area within the 3rd ring, there are thousands of large and small tea house.The tea house, including each class all have, they rippling with folk residential areas and majesty of breath reserved government departments, and bustling commercial place, like a symphony of each movement, must have the handing down close to beautiful harmony.
To chengdu people, tea has the function of the sitting room a lot of time.Meet friends, or even a business partner of choice is usually the teahouse.Chengdu people seem particularly fond of the teahouse of that kind of noise, and lively - a case in point is, the more popular business teahouse, the guest it is, the more often, those quiet teahouse, business will be more and more cold and cheerless.At the end of the day, I'm a little don't understand is, is a carefree life has given rise to the land of chengdu teahouse, or over the teahouse has given rise to chengdu carefree life?
Function of the sitting room, teahouse in chengdu is also a lot of people in the workplace.Despite the teahouse relatives - like the cafe - in chengdu also has the potential of fire, gradually carry a laptop to work in the cafe are also more and more, but the people who work in tea didn't reduce.To me, my many articles - including you are reading this article - is done in the teahouse.Therefore, chengdu local or from chengdu go out people with their work, almost without exception, will write to them life laid a deep imprint of the teahouse, from Li Jili people to ba jin, from ShaTing to quicksand river, no exception.
Make a pot of tea in the home, the thirst;To the teahouse to a cup of tea, that's the life.When speaking to the teahouse in chengdu, love in a word, is called the bubble tea shop.A cup of tea, sit for a few hours, this is called bubble, otherwise just swig.In a sense, the tea house and life is like a beauty, is used to bubble.
Nerve across the city's tea house, its effect on character of chengdu is osmosis, it makes the city talkative, funny, kind, and at the same time with different degree of cunning.Of course, more may be of the essence, the slow rhythm, make them have a negative life always ordinary people difficult to understand the prudent and optimistic.
For those who taste or men of letters
Many years ago, specifically in the jin dynasty 1600 years ago, a man named Chang Qu sichuan chung state, wrote a book called "qiu-hu dallying" geography book.In this work, he to sichuan people put the pulse that "shu people good spice, taste."Instantly, in 1600, which is almost 60 generations past, baraka, upheaval vicissitudes of life, but the sichuan people for good taste the tireless pursuit of but didn't change.
Among various kinds of cuisines, compared with the guangdong cuisine, shandong cuisine, huaiyang cuisine, sichuan cuisine is one of the most grass-roots, it USES the raw materials, almost no special precious thing in the world.But at the same time, sichuan is also the most private and most growing - how many sad stomach, because away from home and from then on, the miss of sichuan as a memorial to the old country?
In chengdu, is there such a phenomenon, that is despite the sichuan food is very bottom, grassroots, but compared with other cuisine, sichuan cuisine may also be the most intimate relationship with narrations.Some of the very long time, like the Yang, Ceng Yi, li yuan, Fu Chong fu-chu, etc., they are related to diet.As for the old chengdu Li Jili person, he is both a hasn't been recognised by true for several reasons of the great writer, is also a gourmet cuisine and shrewd restaurateurs.In the 1940 s, he run by lesser once made in chengdu, sichuan's most cultural celebrities are its customers.Even as revolting CheYaoXian martyrs, also had a call to eat the sichuan cuisine.Until today, the existing more than seventy years history of restaurants are still in business, are still called the sichuan style stew pork and braised pork, taste sweet and sour fish of regulation may be flawed.
May be hidden the gentleman's nearly traditional kitchen, in the contemporary, is still the most frequent in literacy in the restaurant industry in chengdu city.
Li Yawei is a famous little representative poets, think that year, when he was with a "Chinese" vibration parnassus, but more than twenty years.Later, Beijing Li Yawei drift, made independent publisher, published a lot of great or not so wonderful books.Doing the publisher at the same time, the circle of friends all know that he has another identity, that is located on the back of the west China hospital of integrated kitchen boss.There is a pond, rockeries and small forest, food is given priority to with in east sichuan cuisine.To the guests here, there are quite a part of chengdu poets, artists, or other place.If these are the names of the men to arrange out, may be recorded at a poetry and art.
Now, sweet Li Yawei integrated kitchen already pupate for butterfly - from the encirclement of residential area to retreat to repair a new wide lane.Antique courtyard, stood a few bamboo trees and rocks tank, all the Windows seems to quaint "old society".Nobody, you extremely suspicious from that after the antique wooden door will be out of a girl named cui moths, politely said a hail to you, use oriole voice said, "son, please go to the dining hall."
Presumably to and the ancient meaning is consistent, Li Yawei said he is mainly engaged in the ancient incense product of kitchen - what is the ancient food?Is the ancient people love to eat food.He looks and that a few small chef, cook them, from yuan mei teacher to learn skills in the garden food with form stealing.The latest to hutch of accumulated fragrance, is a moonlight night.The night is deep, large courtyard there are several people in the drink, the roof high, like a frightened cat's backbone, moonlight fell down from above, fall off all over the yard.If the writer named Lin in Taiwan, here will be clamouring for wen moonlight a pot of wine.But I think that, instead of warm moonlight, still be inferior to fry a few drinks more ancient chengdu.
With Li Yawei love catering for years, even the last closed culture company, different management accumulated fragrance hutch.Early also writing poetry at the identity of the more well known is the boss of a cultural company.However, inadvertently, he also runs a restaurant.The biggest characteristic of the restaurant, is that it is small, even can be said to be private.It has a strange name, called "Jupiter 16"."Jupiter 16" is probably the highest restaurant in chengdu, it on high, from the window, you can look over half a chengdu south side.When you raise your glass and freehand brushwork in traditional Chinese painting, inadvertently glance out of the window, here is a green tree, fine street, as well as the stream of people like ant colony, that kind of wonderful feeling, perhaps is "to realize wine interested, not those who woke with the words".
"Jupiter 16" is very small, small to only four rooms, two tables."Small is beautiful", said that this is the famous schumacher, Yang to serve it for design "Jupiter 16" motto.Sure enough, the fine details, concrete, vivid, and give a kind of low quality, as Yang stressed: "like to decorate the study decorate the kitchen."-- maybe now you see, in a decorated like the study place to drink, the wine can be called a little wine, also is the former call white lotte guy for good buddy described in liu yuxi's poem artistic conception: green ant new wine fermented grains, small fire red mud.Night to day snow, can drink, no?
Li Yawei incense product of Jupiter 16 hutch and Yang, the literati of open restaurant in chengdu, known as the "white night" at least ZhaiYongMing - it's a bar, has ten years of history, many people came to chengdu, if love literature, most can smell the bouquet and go all the way;Shi Guanghua "seat" - Shi Guanghua is writing a poem, then write the sichuan cuisine, and then began to run restaurants.His partner, is the poet from liangshan JiMu Wolf, he would be drunk to sing a song for the who also don't understand;Liu Chengzhi "flavour" - this is an cuisine, sichuan snack Liu Chengzhi but also the most famous chengdu selling old street - jin - CaoDaoZhe.The spread between the neighborhood literati catering, it besides provide specific to eat and to drink, also provides a kind of emotional appeal, it is to make the city everywhere filled with commercial age of literati rare gas.
In the folk art community
Cooking experience knows, sichuan cuisine, Chinese prickly ash is never less important condiment.There must be, but not much.Because it's just a seasoning, are used to flavor, component to the right.Less, no flavor, much, a presumptuous guest usurps the host's role.Obviously, I said that is not to introduce cooking experience, but just want to borrow this cooking experience to illustrate a simple reason: to chengdu, for the street flavour is dye-in-the-wood city, if there is no art the prickly ash for its flavor, it is defined with me "elegant street" out of their bands, just a city only hollow material without spirit.Fortunately, the "Chinese prickly ash" gave chengdu this authentic sichuan flavor, the Chinese prickly ash, is those who lie in wait in the folk art community.
Sound of the name "deer park at sarnath" of Chinese classical poetry, was in fact from the Sanskrit translation.Deer park at sarnath, therefore, to the way he is so twists and turns leading to a secluded spot, if it was spring, you have to cross thousands mu of van to look up the golden will be tears of rape, through by thousands of willow, poplar and eucalyptus an enfilade of rural roads, and also through a few stone Bridges, to reach the seat on the outskirts of chengdu buddhist stone carving as the core of the museum and the resort and its wall.
Center is located in deer and wild PI county xu weir river, there are from the ancient to the Ming and qing dynasties stone carving art collection of more than 1000 pieces, in the han dynasty to the tang and song dynasties mainly buddhist stone carving art.This is a hidden in the floodplain of the museum, between trees and bamboo is its designers have written a novel, architect Liu Gukun had acted in the play, for the brushwork is noted for its bizarre and poet's bells, was once the director here.
Buddhism was born with the reality of the accession of one wall lie between, on the left, is a large number of buddhist stone carving works, west to Buddhism, the detailed folk art portrayed in the story and image;Right, is the same name of the resort or call center, especially the punch a hole is made in the open lawn few root thick wood, they are training.The deer park at sarnath I went, I met a group of young men and women here training - Buddha witnessed the growth of the young people.
It is said that wild deer garden is the most famous work Liu Gukun.This has little the tendency of the designer, he gave a few famous painter in sichuan design studio, including luo zhongli and zhou chunya, He Duoling such big shots.Big shots is difficult to close to their studio, of course, also is not open to the public., however, are older than from their qualifications, bigwigs met have to sing a well cry Ye Yushan teacher, his studio is not only a workplace, also has a personal works exhibition.
Fell to the place in the mountains.There, is the place that fell to liu bei, was said to be in the first column of the shallow hill on the southern margin of the plains.Ancient ancient courtyard, stood a few buildings, in addition to the two storied building used to live in, the other is the Ye Yushan workshop, production workshop, office workers;The most visible, is standing in front of the two giant sculpture works of Ye Yushan galleries.Sits in the gallery, the most of China's most outstanding sculptors works, including natural have Ye Yushan popular - MAO zedong stretching his legs.It is said that this work had a lot of criticism, that should not be remade leader so casually, a head with your illness stubbornly believe that leader sullenly gravely, every moment, and in the sichuan Ye Yushan sight, the great man also should have such a detachment of leisure time.The same as chengdu people.
And it's been amazing because of a brook surround Ye Yushan courtyard, every day there are hundreds of egrets flew to his yard.Therefore, one of Ye Yushan will do homework every day, is to feed these lively elf loach.The loach, are all spend money is bought from the market, to nearly one hundred thousand yuan a year.
Deer park at sarnath from HuaGuCun to gather a lot of artists, and respectively by guo moruo and ba jin naming arts and the faculty of arts, the ambush folk art community in chengdu, they never seem to occupy the mainstream, but they are a kind of silence, the existence of cannot be ignored.
Therefore, in chengdu, you may find this an interesting phenomenon: in the morning, a man with a wife and children, deer park at sarnath drove to, to the child the old things, professional as if his life down is the narrator.At noon, they should choose a distinctive small restaurant, a table to sichuan cuisine, men have to have two.In the afternoon, the child may be sent back to grandma's home, or go to the school of art, a man as I, gathered in the tea house on the edge of funan river;Woman, and her friends together to wide lane or a spring city road.The breath of real life in this way, so I bet, even throughout all the world, I can also is completely different from the myriad of life, suddenly smell which is called chengdu.